I would think a epoxy glue should do the job after making sure the join is thoroughly clean and degreased. We went through files in very quick order. The objective being to have a clean surface so that you could see the progression of disbonding when a wedge was driven between the two and the sample subjected to a steam cabinet. Mostly I was doing the grunt work of filing the edges of two test pieces that had been bonded. I was helping out on a research project that was investigating a new surface treatment for preparation before bonding titanium. I did a 3 months stint in the aircraft laboratories at Brooklands. It seems that most of my posts here are reminiscing about my apprenticeship. But there's a leaf made of titanium foil to attach too, and I can't see an alternative to glue for that.Īnother blast from the past. There's a possibility of mechanical attachment if I make extra threaded holes for titchy grubscrews inside some of the bits where they won't be seen. I've got butane torches and multicore solder, and I think we're getting a long way outside the scope of those. Some of the other bits are PB102, which is why I was hoping to use solder to attach them as well as the titanium bits. Yeah, thanks for the research, but rocket science is getting to be the issue. for Rocket Scientists, and others with the enthusiasm glance at 236 pages: Some general examples of the methods and problems given here. **LINK**įurther informationon brazing options here at Johnson Matthey - Brazing Filler Metals - Ti-Flo Filler Metals. The reason I ask is I think Titanium can be 'resistance welded' Have you tried the old trick for soldering aluminium ? Scratch the joint with a stainless wire to expose the bare metal ? I don't have any titanium lying about to try. I wondered if there was some miraculous flux available that would get the titanium to tin. Soldering temperature wouldn't be enough to affect the blue.īut I tried it on a bit of scrap titanium and a half-inch of the brass rod, and couldn't make it work. My cunning plan was to blue it first, then open up the hole I was gonna solder the 1/16" brass into to expose bare metal. If you blue it, how will you solder it as you have to get rid of the oxide(the blue, and the invisible), and if you manage to solder it, how do you get it blue without melting the solder. Is it absolutely necessary that this must be titanium? It resists corrosion because it's a very active metal that reacts with atmospheric oxygen to produce a tough oxide on its surface. ![]() The Information Superhighway wasn't encouraging when I tried looking up soldering titanium - in fact it looks as if jewellers are using the stuff for clamps precisely because of its solder-resisting capability.ĭoes anybody have any more hopeful tales to tell, or should I just reach for the Araldite? ![]() I'm making some Christmas trinkets and will want to fix some titanium bits onto 1/16 brass stems.
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